Day 21 - Goa

Summary:

Goa, Ambola.

TFTD:

Rented a scooter without a licence. Were advised to give police 100rp if any problems.

Wouldn't of even considered driving in Madras or Bangalore. Goa is a different kettle of fish. Relatively quiet open mountainous road. A pleasure to ride.

Explored northern Goa. Extremely pretty. Coconut trees literally everywhere.

Found a number of beautiful old stone churches. Some in use, some not. Due to Portuguese history, half local population is Catholic.

Stopped in middle of nowhere at a little shop for drink. Were invited to lunch by one of the other customers. Declined as were still full from breakie & know how much they eat. No one leaves food on their plate here. Didn't want to offend.

So clean and calm. Hard to believe that Mumbai is only 500km North. Feels like an island.

About 5 minutes ride from resort is township of Ambola. Mixture of hippy & indian stores.

Ocean is very warm and calm. Spent first of many expected hours of floating around.

Indian boys patrol the beach selling drinks/massage/ear cleaning with rusty metal prongs or blatantly gawking on the female guests.

No in indians swimming.

Got into a deep conversation about cricket with a shop keeper (He talked, I listened). Both agreed that a grudge match between India & Pakistan is well due. Sort everything out once and for all. He invited us to his house for sports viewing.

Wild pigs roam aplenty. Bacon Omelets are commonly available.
Still eating vegetarian.

Poor man's paradise.

Slogan for the day: In Goa. Anything Goes.

Day 20 - Goa

Summary:

Goa.

TFTD:

Up early to check ticket status. Didn't get it. Booked and flew with "Indi go". Sounds suss but was fine.

Took a taxi the 100km from airport to "Resort" (Loose description) called "Gods Gift".It's set right on the beach. We leased a little self contained "Hut" Very comfortable for 400rp/night. Restaurant is also very good.

Feel like we landed in a different world. Lots of tourists mainly from Britain, Russia & Israel. Few people and open space. Lots of coconut trees. Hot - High 30s. No beggars and no/very few slum shacks.

At dinner we listened to reggae while eating the Indian version of Italian food while sitting next to 4 quiet Russians with 3 x 700ml bottles of vodka on their table.

Seem to be a bit Internet challenged. Have reduced a handful of photo and will be adding a pic slide show to this blog soon as I get a chance. Keep your eye out if interested.

Day 19 - Bangalore

Summary:

Tour of Bangalore. Palace, Hindi temple, Silk shop, Science museum.

TFTD:

After dreadful day 18, were happy to have positive experiences.

Got last 2 seats on tour bus, lots of friendly Indians.

Palace was built by a prince who hated the British. He hated them so much that he has a mechanical toy made commemorating the gouging of "General Munroe". An unfortunate incident which occurred during his reign.

Museum was a lot of fun. In the astronaut exhibition area there was "Indian Space Food". Essentially freeze packed curry and rice. How can you possibly not make fun?

Found a restaurant which sold omelets. Went there for lunch and dinner. My body said THANKYOU.

Weighed ourselves at museum. I'm still 72 kilo down from 75. Was pleased as I feel like I've lost much more. Yumi was the same weight as before.

Indian cars make a noise like a bird cheeping when reversing.

The I30 is not for sale in India. They must be content with the I10 which apparently is "Ubercool".

Lots of Bars in Bangalore.Went into a couple. Sooo filthy, just like the one in Chennai.It's almost as if they try to make it dirty. Even Yumi declined having a beer (even straight out of a bottle) in there. Get the picture?

On waiting list for train tomorrow night. There are 5 bookings ahead of us. Ticket reservation office said we will "definitely" get a booth.

Day 18 - Bangalore

Summary:

Train to Bangalore.

TFTD:

Hari the driver picked us up on the dot and drove us to the station. Tried to get extra payment when dropping us off. Told me he doesn't drink. I told him too bad we had a deal.

Indian coffee is essentially instant coffee with heaps of sugar mixed with mystery milk by pouring it from one cup to another repeatedly. Strangely no tea at station so settled for one. "Barrista" (Using the term very very loosely) told us he couldn't make a black one. I told him to just not add the milk. He couldn't do it. Also, no sugar means only 2 scopes.

Train was fast and comfortable again. Sat next to a friendly Indian couple from near Bangalore. They were about to visit their son in California who is in IT. The wife ate huge amounts of fried foods that are sold by men who constantly walk up and down the isles. The husband asked her if she'd had enough and she snapped at him.

A good percentage of Indians who are in a class that can afford as much food as they desire are pretty round. They love their food.

Bangalore is bigger & busier than expected. Driver took us to 3 lodges before we found vacancy.

A lot of cows in the streets compared to Madras or Trichy.

Had a dispute at restaurant over the bill. I'd ordered a "Tomato Omelet" as listed on menu. They obviously didn't have any eggs so decided to mix some ketchup and couple of tomatoes into a dosai (like a flour pancake).

People frequently spit on the ground and out their windows.It was only a matter of time. On the way home from restaurant Yumi was hit in the arm. Must of come from a few stories up. Nice way to end the day.

Lodge has hot water from 6-9am. Looking forward to it as it's a bit cool at night.

Ordered room service. "Veg Noodles" After 40 minutes went down to see what the delay was. No noodles but hadn't bothered to tell us. Ordered fried rice. Took an hour to come but not fussed.

Still coming to terms with the amount of people. Population of 1 billion + with a growing middle class means that you can't assume to be able to get a seat at a restaurant without waiting, seat on a train/plane/bus within a week or a hotel room without booking in advance. The only thing that is readily available are auto rickshaws. They're everywhere.

Lodge is nice. Big old English building with lots of stone and marble. Paid 550rp but only because cheaper places were all booked.

Day 17 - Chennai

Summary:

Chennai, restaurants, icecream shop, organised travel to Bangalore.

TFTD:

Tracked down "Hari" the auto rickshaw driver and offered to give him a longneck that we had spare (couldn't drink) in exchange for a 5am pick-up and trip to central station in morning. He seemed pleased as beer worth 3 times usual fare.

Starting to feel a little less "Shocked" each time we step outside hotel.

Settled bill with hotel. "Meridian". Was a comfortable stay. Very clean, new beds/sheets, helpful staff. 300 a night.

The street dogs are fairly placid during the day and are always curious if you have food. They get kicked a lot by passersby.

Looking forward to a change of environment and hopefully a change in cuisine. Most restaurants a fairly extensive printed menu but in reality only make 3 or 4 things on it.

Day 16 - Chennai, Independance day

Summary:
Indian Independence day holiday. Walked to memorials and beach markets.
TFTD:
Some women go to the beach and swim fully clothed in their Saris.
There must have been over 100,000 people on the beach. As far as the eye could see (in the smog).
An obese beggar asked us for money for food. We declined.
Saw a man smoking newspaper.. Not rolled up. He liked it.
It must be socially acceptable too pleasure yourself at Internet kiosks here. So that's why most of the men wear sarongs..? I had thought it was because its easier to lift up to squat over the toilet.. Poor Yumi. It's a mans world.
Really delicious looking foods at beach markets but didn't risk it as today was first day in a while that our bellies are stable. I have the local chemist to thank for his accurate prescription.
Some one's burning garbage outside our window....
Had first good meal besides curry. "Special noodles". The restaurant has turned into our regular eatery. Other foreigners come from wide and far to eat something besides curry.. At least just once a day.
Yumi's favorite dish is Chenna Masala. Mine is still Rava Masala Dosai (apm).
Many "High class" (Name only) restaurants have special separate a/c boothes with 6 - 10 or so seats inside. We are always ushered in there. Very segmented class society.The prices on the menu are higher the "commoners" menu but only by a few cents.. Pays for the a/c I suppose.
Would you eat "Mystery Meat" or drink "Mystery Milk"?
Getting used to condensed milk in tea.
Drinking a couple of litres of water a day. 22rp/2L bottle (66c).
Haven't seen any large supermarkets yet. Lots of "Mini" stores. All have the same prices. Makes it easy. Still surprised buy how cheap some things are. (Times rp x 3) 2rp for a 200ml old style bottle of coke/pepsi/sprite. 3rp for a medium veg samosa. 4rp for a chai tea. 30rp for small pack smokes. 1rp small pack matches. Universal power adapter 25rp (I paid $12 for one from Dick Smith that doesn't fit). 75c retail here. $12 in Aus.
All the numerous pastry shops in Chennai sell exactly the same selection even though they seem to be baking on site. Mostly very sweet. Savory pastries are often kept "out the back "learning what to ask for". Been a few throw aways though. Not bad food. Just not to our taste.
Saw a city garbage truck. Its a big open ute and 2 guys with shovels.
Last day in Madras tomorrow.

Day 15 - Chennai, Lazy day

Summary:
Lazy day in Chennai. Sat outside Chai shops, almost everything closed on Sundays.
TFTD:
Didn't see any beggars today.
25% of usual activity on streets. Much more pleasant to walk around.
Weather a bit cool. Wondering when next warm shower will be.
Both got upset bellies. Dosing up on the meds.
Worked out the ultimate weight loss program. Will publish upon my return:
1. Travel to India2. Try a variety of delicious foods. 3. Sweat a lot.4. Walk for at least 4 hours a day.5 Wait for the fun to begin.
"5 step program that you can enjoy while eating as much as you like while watching your favorite shows on TV." 12 easy payments of $29.95 + p&h.
Men pushing karts selling various wares wander the streets making their signature noise. Some examples are hitting sticks, banging tin, calling out, most blend into the surrounding noise but the "ice man" who roams the streets till about 1 am has a really loud cowbell which he rings with a vigor. Don't even think about sleeping before he knocks off work.
There has been a dog fight outside our window for the last 3 nights. The dogs on the street are so small and sleepy during the day but at night...at night.
Media saturation on situation with Pakistan. Watching intently before we head North.
Watched "American psycho" on late night tv. Was so edited "For Indian audiences" that the story was almost impossible to follow. All the nudity, swearing & violence was cut.. Short movie.