Day 16 - Chennai, Independance day

Summary:
Indian Independence day holiday. Walked to memorials and beach markets.
TFTD:
Some women go to the beach and swim fully clothed in their Saris.
There must have been over 100,000 people on the beach. As far as the eye could see (in the smog).
An obese beggar asked us for money for food. We declined.
Saw a man smoking newspaper.. Not rolled up. He liked it.
It must be socially acceptable too pleasure yourself at Internet kiosks here. So that's why most of the men wear sarongs..? I had thought it was because its easier to lift up to squat over the toilet.. Poor Yumi. It's a mans world.
Really delicious looking foods at beach markets but didn't risk it as today was first day in a while that our bellies are stable. I have the local chemist to thank for his accurate prescription.
Some one's burning garbage outside our window....
Had first good meal besides curry. "Special noodles". The restaurant has turned into our regular eatery. Other foreigners come from wide and far to eat something besides curry.. At least just once a day.
Yumi's favorite dish is Chenna Masala. Mine is still Rava Masala Dosai (apm).
Many "High class" (Name only) restaurants have special separate a/c boothes with 6 - 10 or so seats inside. We are always ushered in there. Very segmented class society.The prices on the menu are higher the "commoners" menu but only by a few cents.. Pays for the a/c I suppose.
Would you eat "Mystery Meat" or drink "Mystery Milk"?
Getting used to condensed milk in tea.
Drinking a couple of litres of water a day. 22rp/2L bottle (66c).
Haven't seen any large supermarkets yet. Lots of "Mini" stores. All have the same prices. Makes it easy. Still surprised buy how cheap some things are. (Times rp x 3) 2rp for a 200ml old style bottle of coke/pepsi/sprite. 3rp for a medium veg samosa. 4rp for a chai tea. 30rp for small pack smokes. 1rp small pack matches. Universal power adapter 25rp (I paid $12 for one from Dick Smith that doesn't fit). 75c retail here. $12 in Aus.
All the numerous pastry shops in Chennai sell exactly the same selection even though they seem to be baking on site. Mostly very sweet. Savory pastries are often kept "out the back "learning what to ask for". Been a few throw aways though. Not bad food. Just not to our taste.
Saw a city garbage truck. Its a big open ute and 2 guys with shovels.
Last day in Madras tomorrow.

Day 15 - Chennai, Lazy day

Summary:
Lazy day in Chennai. Sat outside Chai shops, almost everything closed on Sundays.
TFTD:
Didn't see any beggars today.
25% of usual activity on streets. Much more pleasant to walk around.
Weather a bit cool. Wondering when next warm shower will be.
Both got upset bellies. Dosing up on the meds.
Worked out the ultimate weight loss program. Will publish upon my return:
1. Travel to India2. Try a variety of delicious foods. 3. Sweat a lot.4. Walk for at least 4 hours a day.5 Wait for the fun to begin.
"5 step program that you can enjoy while eating as much as you like while watching your favorite shows on TV." 12 easy payments of $29.95 + p&h.
Men pushing karts selling various wares wander the streets making their signature noise. Some examples are hitting sticks, banging tin, calling out, most blend into the surrounding noise but the "ice man" who roams the streets till about 1 am has a really loud cowbell which he rings with a vigor. Don't even think about sleeping before he knocks off work.
There has been a dog fight outside our window for the last 3 nights. The dogs on the street are so small and sleepy during the day but at night...at night.
Media saturation on situation with Pakistan. Watching intently before we head North.
Watched "American psycho" on late night tv. Was so edited "For Indian audiences" that the story was almost impossible to follow. All the nudity, swearing & violence was cut.. Short movie.

Day 14 - Chennai, cinema

Summary:
Went to see Slumdog Millionaire at the cinema. Window shopped night markets near hotel.
TFTD:
Cinema complex was ultra modern & clean. Had a "gaming level" with Wii sports room. We reserved couch balcony seats for 120rp($3.60) each. Was good chance to get a good look at crowd which was India's upper middle class.Most people talked throughout the film/talked on their mobiles and brought their crying babies but was overall a positive experience as everyone seemed to be having a good time and loudly laughed/applauded/sighed throughout. The audience reflected the mood of the film more than an Aussie one.
Was a bit surreal to watch a film set in a slum while sitting in a modern cinema complex surrounded by slums.
Lots of homeless children/toddlers scampering about but saw a naked newly born baby asleep on the sidewalk with it's mother out the front of a restaurant. The contrast between rich and poor is to the absolute extreme.
Personal space here is non exist ant. Everyone looks over everyone Else's shoulder to see what they are up to whether you are buying a ticket, paying a bill or having a pee.
Found a coffee shop selling "real coffee". first one in 2 weeks. Not bad at all.
4 more days in Chennai but ready to move on.

Day 13 - Chennai, lazy day

Summary:
Both feeling a bit worn out. Stayed close to hotel. Ate, played Ludo & watched movie channel on TV.
TFTD:
There is a man who sits on his balcony across the street from our room all day long. Just sitting and watching the street.
Booked a train ticket to Bangalore.Soonest tickets are 5 days away. Bangalore to Goa will be tricky. On waiting list for the 30th but all booked till the 24th of February. Planning to get an "Emergency ticket". Buses are also booked and Cheap domestic airline "Spice Air" doesn't fly that route.

Day 12 - Chennai, bus tour.

Summary:
Went on local government run 1/2 day city tour which consisted of 2 museums (British military artifacts), expensive shop selling souvenirs (Most time out of all stops was spent here), Hindi temple (Awesome/huge/clean), snake & reptile park & according to tour guide - the "second longest beach in the world" which is 11 miles long (comments here please) .
TFTD:
If you want to sneak something into a museum, plant it on the women cause only the men are frisked upon entry.
We are the only foreigners on the tour out of 15 people.
When travelling over rivers hold your breath. If the river is wide and you happen to pass out, you have chosen the pleasant option.Must pump 42 million peoples worth of sewage direct?
Have been rinsing toothbrush in tap water..will stop.
Saw a theme park next to the river. Classical looking Ferris wheel was spinning so fast..
The Hindi architecture is beautifully intricate and on an amazingly huge scale. Shrines/temples are on almost every city block.
Didn't feel sorry at all for the animals at the zoo/snake park. They have it pretty good compared to many people.
Cobra show consisted of a guy jabbing it in the neck with a steel pole until it struck at him in angry retaliation. Reminded me of Steve Irwin.RHS.
Tour guide liked Ricky Ponting and also that famous Aussie marine biologist who died recently. I felt silly not knowing who it was but after long deliberation, turned out to be.. Steve Irwin.
When in India, eat Indian food. Everything else is not quiet right to my taste.
Had the best meal of my life for under 25rp. Rava masala Dosai.

Day 11 - Chennai, zoo

Summary:
Caught local bus 30km to Zoo. Huge. Avoided curry for the day.
Electric golf buggy-esk ride around zoo. Driver impatient when we (9 people) got off to look at animals. Beeped horn a lot. Everyone pretty much ignored him.
Safari style zoo with huge enclosures. Animals have it better than the beggars who were hanging around there. How'd they get in? Must pay fee and try to make it back during the day?
Sweet Lassies are great but expensive (15RP).
Got first bout of food poisoning.Go Imodium. Thanks Mic.
What's with the horns? Constant beeping on bus for no apparent reason. open highway with couple of other cars. Beep Beep Beep Beeeeep.
Saw 7 people + driver in auto rickshaw designed for 2.
No doors on buses or trains. Gotta hang onto railing. Beep Beeep.
Everything here comes in super mini size. Bought 5g of vicks Vapo rub, Tiny packet matches, single cigarettes.
Lungs feel tight. Coughing a lot.. Nose running from irritation. Sometime eyes burn. How do people survive in this environment for extended time? Everyone says that Mumbai/Delhi is worse. Can't imagine.
There is no such thing as natural environment here. It's all gone. Completely over run with people. Human waste everywhere. No grass.. Just dust.
Diesel is 35c au a litre cheaper than regular petrol here. Go Aussie tax system!

Day 10 - Chennai

Summary:
Caught tuk tuk 8km to Snake house. Was closed. Driver took us on little tour of beach/suburbs. Found nice pastry shop near hotel but curry for lunch & dinner again.
TFTD:
Indian beer "Black knight" is not good(tastes like whisky). Bought from very suspicious hole in the wall bar that had never seen a woman before yumi. Was a bit hesitant entering but staff friendly & patrons just curious.
Beach is relatively clean. Driver informed that it is cleaned by a company.
Saw area that was wiped out by the tsunami.
Layer of dust coating skin Looking forward to 1st warm shower since 4 star KL hotel tonight.
Hot tap in shower turns out to be cold...
Local people pretty hospitable/helpful. Despite the filth & poverty, not so hard to travel here.
Eating off a banana leaf is clean and saves washing up. Restaurants have no plates or cutlery.
Mosquitoes every night. Not a screen in sight.
Wondering when we will start wobbling our heads like the locals.
Made lots of "friends" curious people and vendors.
Bought new imitation sunnies. No need to bargain.
24 hour city. If you want Dosai or Chapati at 4 in the morning.. It's there.
Sooo many people living in small area.
Visited tourist office. Big and 24 hours.
Indian movies mainly consist of a man and woman dancing while the background changes to various places. On a bridge, in a park, at the beach, in France, on a mountain and so on..40 or so channels.
Indian idol is the same but very different. More interesting than Australian idol.

Day 9 - Chennai

Summary:
Caught 6:30 train to Chennai (6 hours 320rp-$10 each for a/c seats), Booked into "Paradise Guest House(550rp)".
TFTD:
Chennai has sealed roads so not as dusty.
Main river (Korukkupet) is like a garbage dump, People washing in it.
No wireless anywhere.
Odd foreign tourist.
Poverty is extreme but less aggressive beggars than Tirchy.
Found and booked better hotel than Paradise for 1/2 the price (300rp night). 1st "indiamike.com" review is inaccurate.
So far the food is great and no poisoning but starting to crave fresh salad/veggies.
Unreserved cheap ticket line to get on the train was absolute madness. Hundreds of men trying to fit though one door whilst guards hit them with sticks and yelled. Despite the urgency/roughness to board, no fighting.Wondering what the situation is. Must have a quota?

Day 8 - Tirchy, Rock temple

Summary:

Explored Tirchy. Caught a local bus. Visited a temple & a "Rock fort". 500 steps to the top.

TFTD:

Had seamstress put new lining in backpack. $5.

No food poisoning yet. Eating everything vegetarian. Saw a local butcher. Not appetising.

Went to book train to Chennai tomorrow. Turns out that even with many trains leaving everyday, they are booked out 4 days in advance. Friendly lady helped us tho and told us that they have an "Emergency quota". I told her that it's not an emergency to which she replied "What time would you like to go tomorrow"? We had to fill out an "Emergency transit form". In the reason section I was told to write "Foreign tourist".

Found silk to use for a bed sheet.

Many near misses on the tuk tuk ride back to city from rock fort.

Smog is so thick. no visibility. Watching the Mumbai marathon on TV is difficult as the cameras cant get close enough to the runners for a clear shot. I hope Australia never becomes like this. Incredibly polluted air. Raw human/animal & mechanical waste.

Day 7 - Tirchy India

Summary:

Finally, off to India! Up at 3:15. Bus to airport. Smooth 3h 45min flight to Tirchy. Plane was packed. Just before landing the air hostesses fumigated the plane by spraying some kind of spray up and down the aisles. Burnt eyes a bit. Guess they have enough bugs in India already.

Soon as plane touched down everyone sprung up out of their chair. We waited till everyone had gotten off but soon got our first taste of "Categorising". The Indians made one huge line behind one immigration clerk while the handful of foreigners (mostly Malay) were ushered through express style.

If I was tired on the plane it wasn't for long. We took a tuk tuk from airport to city centre (120RP)$3. To much for words to describe. Animals, people, slum, defecation, diesel haze, horns, shrines & raw poverty. A much as you prepare yourself and expect it. It 's a shock to the senses.

Today is the start of 3 day holiday in honour of the sun god. Tirchy is the place to celebrate it.

Went to 6 hotels before finding vacancy. Took it sight unseen - (275RP, $8) Own bathroom, clean, fan, TV, super friendly staff. Pastry shop downstairs. We were so hungry that we ate 4 small pastries, 4 cups of tea & a 2 litre bottle of water. (170rp, yes that's right $1.50 for the lot)

Found tourist office to get a city map and were invited to go to a traditional dance performance/sun festival/ political rally/tourist promotion... Were given free ride and front row seats. I met the mayor of the city. A large smiley lady followed by about 20 aides/helpers.
Being white and Japanese is rare enough that people keep stopping in the street to shake my hand and have a chat. Despite all the kaos,people are inquisitive but open and extremely friendly.

Note. Shane Warne good. Ricky Ponting bad.

Realised that the only reason taxi/tuk tuk is expensive is because petrol is 85c a litre.

Day 6 - Bus back to KL

Summary:

Treated ourselves to an iced coffee and latte at "mall". Lady boys for staff. Didn't pick it till they spoke.

Caught bus back to KL. Met friendly German girl on her way to Aus. Stayed in hotel above station (China Town , Petaling St). Overpriced and smelt like pee. Both hardly slept a wink.

Day 5 - Botanical hiking

Summary:

Had nice breakfast of milk tea and banana donut-esk pastries. Walked the streets.
Went to state museum. Found new hotel to stay. $18 night. Much much nicer. Had amazing lunch for $1.50 each. Chapati set.

Walked 2km to Botanical gardens
& did a bit of a hikeup a mountain expecting to find a waterfall.30 min later realised there was none.

waterfall was on q different trail but we were too exhausted to attempt.
Caught taxi back to city. Walked another 40 min to book
bus ticket back to KL.

TFTD:

Why don't we have "Luxury buses" in Australia? Better than business class on a plane and only $14au for a 5 hour trip. Go figure... Driver wages?

Saw homeless boy with homeless cat.

Also saw dying kitten on hot street.

Man stopped his scooter in middle of busy street to let us know that buses no longer stop at place we
were standing. Random acts of kindness are adding up.

Muslims don't hate foreigners. Malaysia is a really easy and pleasant place to travel.

Was bitten by first mosquito way up in the mountains today... Little one.

Thinking that perhaps the chefs on restaurants/street vendors are toning down the spice in the food for us as so far, there has been nothing that was too hot for me to eat.

No tampons in Malaysia. Only pads.

Tiger beer is good but expensive. $3au

As a vendor taught us, you don't need many teeth to make a pretty smile.

Did first clothes wash.They weigh your laundry to get price.. Seems fair.

If I'm ever homeless, I'll fly straight to George Town, it's hot all night.Hotel we are in doesn't even have a hot tap in shower and it's not cause they're trying to save power.

Mystery meat- some kind of bird with lots of small bones. waiters say it's chicken. If it's chicken, I'm a giraffe. Tastes good though.

We think that the rickshaw drivers must all be related. Look similar.

George town is busy but feels relaxed.

In contrast to surrounding countries, Malays very rarely us their car/scooter horn. Haven't heard a siren yet.

Small babies enjoy a bit of a spin around the city on the scooter with mum and dad too.

I wonder if they make little baby helmets but they don't wear them cause it's not cool?

Twistys come in "Spicy Garlic" flavour. Really good.

Canned coconut juice is not that good.

Eating curry with your hand is a lot of fun. Felt natural surprisingly fast.

Bathrooms come with a hose instead of paper. The one in our hotel doesn't reach the toilet so I guess you use it where you shower. note to self - Wear thongs when showering.

Day 4 - Penang

Summary:

Caught 5 hour bus to Georgetown, Capital for Penang. Staying in budget hotel ($25) in "Little India" Taxi driver
informed us that today is Hindi New Year. Lots of people on streets.

Thoughts for the day (TFTD):

Malays are so honest. No need to bargain even at "suspicious" looking vendors. The price for locals and us is almost always the same.

A 50L North Face backpack for $32 looks the same as its $250 genuine equivalent. But it's not.

Petrol = 75c Litre.

Indian taxi driver made detour to get us a map of area from tourist office at no extra charge.

News readers on TV morning show made racist comments about Chinese substituting rice with polyurethane.

Day 3 - Batu Caves

Summary: Caught a bus to Batu Caves 45min from KL. Wikipedia says they were discovered by some Pommy fellow 120
years ago by the British. Locals mustn't have had a flag..?

Thoughts for the day:

Some restaurants use a water mist curtain sprayed out front to cool the air. Effective.

Monkeys can be naughty & throw coconuts. Beware.

290 steps up to the caves is further than you think. Our legs are a bit sore from all the walking.

It costs 8 c or 20 Ren to use an outside public toilet. Department store is 30 ren. Keep change in pocket..

Day 2 - KL

Summary: Spent day exploring KL. Visited Petronas towers. Went to China Town markets in evening & bought
fake branded sunnies & wallet.

Thoughts for the day:

Where are all the insects? Not a mosquito or fly in sight.

Walked a lot.

Lots of men standing around on street. Where are all the women?

Price of a good meal is 4 -5 RM $2.

And we're off!

Summary: Early start from home. Asian Air flight from Coolangatta to Kuala Lumpur (8 hours) Departed 3 hours late.
Arrived at Raduis International in the "Golden triangle" at 9PM.

Notes for the day:

It is fun to start an inflight chat group titled "Late Again" on Asian Air's seat mounted interactive entertainment unit but things can quickly turn nasty when some younger more irresponsible passengers attempt to convert it into a dating/bitching chat group.

Airport security men taught us that even if you are small in stature, you can still be scary if you carry a loaded AK47.

Malays are generally smiley and helpful.

You know you are in a muslim country when you can always get directions on "Which way is Mecca please"? Even on the plane was a compass with a big "M"

Off durian smells like dog hair boiled in sugar and then burnt.

It doesnt have to get cold at night. It can still stay hot.

Even if you are a retiree, you don't really have to be in shape or have hair on your head to date a 20 year old chinese/malay girl/boy/lady boy. It helps if you're British though.

Very multi-cultural city. Indian, Indonesian, Chinese & Malay.

Buses won't give change for cash as the driver drops it into a fixed box. I would assume as a security measure.

The Petronas Towers closed to the public on Mondays.

Even the smallest chilli can still burn a small hole in your tongue.

Plans for tomorrow: Book bus ticket to Penang. Eat less chilli. Revisit Petronas Towers.